GORYOKAKU

At the heart of the city of Hakodate, you will find a large garden space and hoard of tourist flocking to see the well managed grounds. Though beyond the blanket of Sakura is a darker more violent history.

Following the arrival of the United States naval mission in 1853, the Tokugawa shogunate became concerned about the defence of Japan. For hundreds of years they had lived in peaceful isolation. However, with the arrival of the American war ships, it was clear that Japan was outclassed technologically and perhaps tactically. In response, a series of measures were taken to rapidly prepare and modernise the country. One such measure was the construction of Goryokaku in Hakodate.

Goryokaku was a European style star fortification built to over protection to the harbour of Hakodate, which was one of the key ports and fisheries in Northern Japan, and one of the five forced open by the United States. It was the largest of three such forts, the others being Fort Benten Daiba to the south and Shiryokaku built during the Boshin War of 1868-9. The fort was grand and impressive, and offered a formidable obstacle to any potential threat. Unbeknownst to the Shogunate was that the first and only enemies to face the fortress would be their own countrymen.

Following the battle, the fortress never saw war again. It was used primarily as a parade ground for the army forces stationed in the city until 1913 when it was converted into a city garden which it remains as today. All the original buildings have since been demolished though a handful of well-constructed replicas have been built in place. Goryokaku does contain a museum inside the large reconstruction of the main hall, but as of this article (2025) it lacks any substantial displays.